The
most important part of playing a good game is playing on a good table. If you
are choosing a table to play on, and are in a pool hall or a bar, the first
thing to check is the play of the rails.
If you send the que ball into
the rail, it should bounce back without leaving the bed of the
table.
Additionally, if you shoot the que ball with only enough force to
make it into a pocket from one end of the table to the other, it should travel
in a straight line... check the table from both ends, as well as
across.
Playing on different tables will actually make you a better
player, as long as you take the time to get accustomed to the way a table
plays... some rails will have better bounce, some felt wil play faster that
others, and a table might even have fast areas along with slower areas, and
rails that have more bounce than others.
If you play on just your own
home table, you will get accustomed to the way it plays, which will give you an
advantage over others when you play at home, but you will probably suffer from
a slight disadvantage when playing pool in a bar or pool hall.
On a
quality table, the main table surface should be made from slate. They can come
with one, two, or three piece design. A single piece of slate is really nice
because it will remain level under most circumstances, but they are also much
more expensive... partially because of the manpower required to move them, and
partially because the manufacturer has to have a large enough piece to begin
with, rather than being able to use smaller pieces.
A table made of
three pieces of slate is much easier to put together. Each piece of slate will
generally weigh around 250 lbs.
Some tables, designed to be light-weight
are constructed of other materials that will play well for a while, but don't
generally last very long, as far as remaining level and true. These tables are
more appropriate for those living in an apartment for example, where weight
would be a consideration.
There are different grades of tables which are
reflective in their final price. On the high end of the scale, the table will
be made using 7/8 inch to 1 inch thick slate. The lower scaled tables will use
3/4 inch slate.
In either case, the slate will extend past the playing
surface to the ends of the table, thus allowing extra support for the rails.
The better tables will also have a wood backing for the surface cloth
to be attached using staples. Some lower-end tables don't have the wood
backing, and the cloth is attached with a spray adhesive, which can cause
puckering or peeling especially if moisture and humidity are prevalent.
In older tables horizontal holes were drilled in the slate edges and
filled with molten lead; screws running through the vertical edge of the rail
were tightened into the lead-lined hole.
In contrast, rails are
attached to modern tables by inserting a bolt vertically through a hole in the
slate and tightening it into the bottom of the rail, pulling the rail and slate
together snugly.
There are many choices to be made when making a custom
table. The thickness of your slate, the color of the cloth for the playing
surface, material used for rails and pockets.
Most people who own a
pool table in their homes consider it a piece of furniture as well as a for
entertainment, so be sure to get what you want and what fits into your
lifestyle. If you are buying a pool table for the first time, consider wether
or not you have a risky environment... children, cats, drunk buddies... things
like that.
After deciding your slate, you will need to choose a color
for the table. Often there are more than 30 choices, as well as custom printing
such as NFL teams, or your favorite drink. Surfaces are a lot like carpeting,
coming in various weights. The common preferred weight is from 20 to 22 ounces.
Be sure that it is a good nylon-wool blend. The cloth used to cover the slate
and the rails is designed specifically for pool tables.
Although it is
often referred to as felt (a fabric formed by compressing fibers rather than
weaving), it is actually a woven fabric with a nap (exposed, short, fuzzy fiber
ends) on one surface.
Your rails and pockets are all personal choices
as far as coloring and materials. You can go plain to keep the cost down, or
have carved rails with leather pockets, creating an ornate piece of furniture.
It's really all up to you. Your playing surface and felt covering should be the
main concern for quality.
Diamond- or circular-shaped sights embedded
in the rail tops are usually made of mother of pearl, abalone shell, or
plastic.
Pocket irons may be made of cast iron, zinc alloy, aluminum,
rubber, or high-impact styrene plastic. Traditionally, pocket liners are made
of leather (solid or net), but plastic or rubber is also used.
A table
made well constructed materials will last you years and bring much pleasure.
For those of you wondering about the cost, an inexpensive table might have
particle board components that do not hold screws or staples as well as solid
wood.
Tables vary widely in quality and cost; a casual player who wants
a table for a few years of personal recreation can get a used one for around
$600. So-called popularly priced tables, which are well-built, durable, and
attractive, may cost $1,600-$3,000. Remember, your primary aim should be for
that of stability and durability. |
